X-RayX-Ray shows an image of a wrist radiograph. The image moves as you move your watch; the flesh, bones and watch buckle pictures move at different rates, giving a 3D (parallax) effect.

Trick your friends by showing them your watch while you’re wearing it. If a friend is in front of you, touch the right side of the screen first: this puts the clockface into ‘friend mode’ which adjusts the position of the image. A red dot will flash in this mode.

Although the highlight of X-Ray is its image, it’s also a well-featured exercise clockface.  It displays an activity measure, which you can cycle by touching the left side of the screen. The measure includes percent of daily goal, and the icon fills up as you progress. If you go above 100%, it fills up a second time.

The heart rate reading also gives a percent through the heart rate zone you’re in, and its icon fills and recolours to suit.

On Versa 2, X-Ray has an always-on display mode.

Extensive settings are available.

X-Ray costs $1 USD + tax.

Get X-Ray


Hopefully the default settings will work adequately for you. However, you can tweak them so you can get the x-ray image to better align with your wrist.

The x-ray image is composed of three pictures: bones, flesh and buckle.

Many Fitbit watches don’t have a sensor that lets them determine their orientation, and they certainly don’t know where your eyes are. The X-Ray clockface positions the x-ray pictures based on the angle of the acceleration that the watch experiences, which will normally be downwards due to gravity. It may be helpful to bear this in mind when setting up and using X-Ray, since watch movement and unusual orientations will affect the picture positions.

Although you can adjust the settings in any order, the process described below should help you to get things set up most easily. Be aware that changing one setting can have an influence on related settings.

Getting Started

Set the watch’s screen timeout to 60 seconds so the display doesn’t disappear too often while you’re trying to adjust things. Remember to reset it when you’ve finished.

Ensure that the X-Ray clockface is not in ‘friend’ viewing mode (ie, there isn’t a flashing red dot in the top right corner). If it is, touch the right side of the clockface.

Slide the ‘Wearer view angle’ setting all the way to the left. This means that the watch should be held facing straight up, and that you should look directly down at it. While this is unrealistic, it will make it easier to set up the image positions. When that’s done, the viewing angle can be adjusted to a more natural setting.

You may find it helpful to set the ‘Motion smoothness’ to maximum so that the image doesn’t jump around so much. If you do this, bear in mind that you’ll have to wait for up to a second for the image to move into the right position whenever you move your wrist.


Look down on the watch from directly above it. Adjust the first two BONES sliders (‘Bones top at screen top’ and ‘Bones bottom at screen bottom’) so that the position of the bones image seems plausible as you rotate your wrist. Don’t worry about large rotation angles yet; just get the bones looking right in the ‘top at top’ and ‘bottom and bottom’ region.

Now adjust how quickly the bones image should scroll off the screen when you rotate your wrist at greater angles: use the ‘Bones top at screen bottom’ and ‘bones bottom at screen top’ sliders. Be aware that the effect of these two slides is influenced by the previous  bones settings, so if you adjust the previous settings again, you may need to readjust these.


The flesh image is a faint dappled grey that moves over the top of the bones image. At extreme angles, it can also show the edge of your wrist.

You should decide whether you want the edges of your wrist to ever appear on the watch face. If you imagine that the x-ray is taken at the bottom of your watch (where it rests on your skin), then the outline of your wrist would never be visible because some x-rays would always be going through flesh. However, if you imagine the x-ray is taken at the top of your watch (ie, the screen), then you would be able to see the edges of your wrist when you rotate your arm so that the watch is almost perpendicular to your eyes. This effect makes the x-ray image more convincing, but is harder to set up properly.

The process for adjusting the flesh image position is the same as that for adjusting the bones image position (see above).

When positioning the flesh image, ensure that the bones always remain within the flesh.


Increase ‘Depth below watch’ if you have a large wrist; doing so will make the buckle image move faster.

Adjust ‘Position around wrist’ to move the buckle image up/down the screen, taking into account where the buckle is positioned around your wrist. This will depend on the size of your wrist, and the length and tightness of the watch band.


After you’ve got the images positioned correctly when looking down on the watch from above, move the watch away from you to a more natural viewing position. The images should now appear to be somewhat out of position because you’re looking at them from a different angle. Use the ‘Wearer view angle’ to compensate. This setting will affect all three images. Use a large setting if you normally look at your watch at a large angle, rather than directly facing the screen.

Optionally, you can set the ‘Friend view angle’. This setting is equivalent to the ‘Wearer view angle’ but will be used when you put the X-Ray clockface into friend mode by touching the right side of the screen. The ‘Friend view angle’ setting works in the opposite sense of the ‘Wearer view angle’ because it assumes that your friend is standing in front of you and so sees your watch from the other side. If you show off X-Ray to a friend standing beside you, you won’t need to use friend mode.

The final setting in this section is ‘Motion smoothness’. With the slider to the left, the images will change position quickly when you move your watch, but they may continue to move around a bit because they’ll be very sensitive to small changes in watch orientation. With the slider to the right, the images will move into position more slowly, but won’t jiggle around as much.